On the Fourth of July, many people will be going to barbecues.
But NBC 5 Food Guy Steve Dolinsky says hold on a second.
‘Barbecue’ means slow smoking, but many weekend barbecuers also ‘grill’. A proper barbecue takes a bit more skill and time, so this week we’re highlighting some of the best spots in the southwest suburbs.
Like many professional pitmasters, this story begins with a previous job and a life-changing trip to Texas. Fast forward a few years and now the former heavy equipment operator is slow smoking five days a week.
The smell hits you even before you walk through the front door of Matt’s Barbecue in downtown Lemont. That’s because a giant offset smoker sits on a massive deck that was once a parking lot and is now a smoky outdoor rest area.
“I started this as a side business and after a few trips to Texas, I fell in love with the barbecue scene and started it in my garage,” said Matthew Boehner, owner of Matt’s BBQ.
He chose a long offset smoker because the airflow traditionally works better for a large brisket—wood is loaded into the firebox from one side, and the smoke rises up the length of the smoker and out the chimney—but it still requires careful placement.
“You see, if you put them too close to the fire, especially when they’re cooking garnishes like we are, and they’re doing a bunch of other things too, they’ll burn instead of barking,” he said.
The skin, heavy on black pepper, is synonymous with Texas-style brisket, and it’s a challenge to properly smoke both the thicker cut and the narrower flat section without overcooking or drying it out. Borner also serves ribs.
“Chicago is such an old-fashioned city, so I wanted to bring that vibe to Chicago and keep alive the things I ate as a kid in different places around the city,” he said.
And it’s not just baby back, it’s a whole pork shoulder, too, a nod to the Carolinas.
“I’m a big fan of South Carolina barbecue. Everybody loves pulled pork. It’s been one of our best-selling items since I started making it in my garage. Now we also make Carolina sauce,” Borner said.
Sides are made here too: mac and cheese, potato salad, cheese corn, and bacon-wrapped jalapeños stuffed with cream cheese and brisket. Want some Lipitor?
Borner said he and his colleagues are constantly learning, but that the business is a lot harder than the average weekend warrior realizes.
“Barbecue is hard, and doing it on a large scale makes a whole different story,” Borner said. “If I do a brisket or two at home for a few people, they’re happy. Do it here? It’s a whole different story. At the end of the day, they love it and they keep coming back.”
There’s also live music on Friday and Saturday weekends, but plan ahead and come early, as Matt’s often sells out of barbecue by around 8pm on busy days.
Here are some places you can go:
Matt’s BBQ
308 Canal Street, Lemont
630-863-7584
