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I’ve lounged on the beaches of Antalya and dodged backpackers in Istanbul, but Turkey’s capital Ankara has a different vibe. It is less touristy and much more historic.
Located in the Central Anatolian region, this city’s 7,023-year long history is embedded in Roman stone walls and Ottoman architecture. An attractive blend of deep earth tones.
This ancient city remains untouched by the vagaries of modern times. There is no McDonald’s next to the thousand-year-old monument. Patterned rugs are still sold on street corners, and the pleasant scent of colorful spices and dried fruit wafts through the narrow alleys as friendly locals go about their business.
This year, the Anatolian city celebrated its 100th anniversary with a week-long Cultural Highway Festival. It included everything from art, music, food, and fashion.
This route is worth following as it reveals interesting developments in this vibrant Turkish capital.
Here’s what you can do in 3 days:
Day 1: Bunka Kaido Festival
Ankara Ethnology Museum
ethnographic museum
Built in 1928, the Ankara Ethnographic Museum preserves and exhibits artifacts dedicated to Turkish civilization and explains how Ankara became the place we know today. Masu.
You can discover; national costumes, Anatolian metalwork, mosaic tiles, wooden slippers, Ottoman-era glasswork, mock Ottoman dwellings, examples of Turkish calligraphy, and first-style rugs.
Most importantly, the museum houses the sarcophagus of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, former president and founder of the Republic of Turkey. In 1953 he was transferred to Antkabir. It was his final resting place and the last landmark I visited.
Ankara Art and Sculpture Museum
Right next to the Ethnology Museum is the Ankara Museum of Art and Sculpture. It houses Turkish art from the late 19th century to the present. Paintings take up most of the wall space, but you can also find small sculptures.
While undertaking reforms to modernize the country, Atatürk wanted to create a new national identity through art. He stressed that culture should be the cornerstone of the Turkish Republic, promoting art that was rarely practiced before Atatürk, due to Islamic traditions that shun idolatry.
Fun fact: Atatürk ordered the construction of numerous museums and universities, believing that these two facilities would help the city develop.
thermomodon
The CerModern is an old railway factory showcasing photography, sculpture, and art installations.
Exhibits are changed regularly. During this visit, I experienced contemporary art in the Dolomites, known as “Where the Sea Once Was.” Simply put, this artwork focuses on the impact of climate change on our oceans.
It was quite shocking and I was in awe of the unique and powerful installations on display.
The hall is spacious enough that there was plenty of space for each piece, giving us time to wander around and concentrate on each individual piece. The original columns and exposed beams from the 1920s add to the rustic yet contemporary feel of the old factory, which was rebuilt in 2010.
There is also a museum shop, meeting rooms, studios, lounges, library, cafe, and outdoor sculpture park.
the 2nd day:
Roman baths and open-air museum
Excavations carried out between 1937 and 1944 uncovered the ancient Roman baths of Ankara, which are now an open-air museum. These communal baths (hamams) were built during the Roman Empire (212-217) and remained in use for 500 years as households did not have enough water.
The complex also contains more than 1,000 Roman-era stones, statues, columns, and marble artifacts, so there’s more to see than just the ruined baths. This place is located at a height of 2.5 meters from the road of Cankur Kadesh near Urus and offers a panoramic view of the city.
It was surreal to stand on the ground where the Romans once bathed and imagine the activities that took place there. Little did they know that their daily work in hygiene would become an exciting tourist attraction and a huge part of Turkish culture.
Revolutionary War Museum
The War of Independence Museum hosted the first Turkish Grand National Assembly. Inside, we explored all the rooms, including the office where Atatürk worked and studied. Original furniture, old photographs and important documents are also on display.
During the War of Independence, citizens, especially those living around the castle, were so anxious for freedom that they donated tiles from their homes to help open the building.
In 1920, thousands of people gathered at the opening ceremony at Ulus Square to witness the creation of the Turkish Constitution, the singing of the Turkish national anthem, and the election of Ankara as the capital of the Turkish Republic.
Museum of the Republic (Second Parliament Building)
The Museum of the Republic was home to the women’s rights movement and where women gained the right to vote and stand for election: when the latter law was passed in 1934, just under 20 women applied.
The Capitol building, where voters sit, is impressive, with a large pink balcony and ornate chandeliers.
CSO Ada and Symphonic Concert Hall
concert
At the end of a day filled with history, we relaxed to the sounds of classical music played by a symphony orchestra. There were wind instruments, string instruments, brass instruments, and percussion, and I was especially struck by the magical performances of the accordion player and the lead female singer with a sensational voice.
The show I saw was in the old orchestra building (Historical CSO), but the most impressive building is the triangular glass CSO main hall built in 2021. You must enter the venue even if you are not planning to go to the concert. Step out the front door and look around. The interior and exterior architecture is incredibly unique.
The music campus also includes the CSO Museum, the 500-seat Blue Hall, and an outdoor concert space that seats 10,000 people.
Tip: Please note that you may not be able to enter if you are not punctual.
Third day:
Museum of Anatolian Civilizations
It is said to be the most important museum in Ankara or Turkiye. The Museum of Anatolian Civilizations (or Castle Museum) traces the life of the country and its people from 5,000 BC to the present day.
It is divided into three sections: Homo Sapiens, the Hall of Stone Objects, and Classical Ankara. In 1921, Ataturk ordered that Hittite artefacts be collected from all over the country and brought to the centre. It is one of the few museums in the world where artefacts are organised chronologically and such unique pieces are on display.
ankara castle
Close to the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations is Ankara Castle, located on the city’s highest hill. The 360 degree view from the ramparts is exceptional and you can spot all the landmarks mentioned above.
However, entering the castle grounds was not what I had imagined – it’s a vibrant bazaar with souvenir stalls, food stalls and restaurants. It feels like a small town. It’s only when I started climbing the steps of the castle walls that I felt a real sense of rich history and a true connection.
Tip: When you’re in the area, stroll through the town of Kale and enter the Aslanhane Mosque, built in the 13th century using only wood and no iron or nails.
Ataturk Mausoleum, Atakabi Mausoleum
Atatürk died in Istanbul on November 10, 1938. Nine days later, he was transported to Ankara via train, boat and gun cart. He was kept in the Ethnographic Museum until construction of the Anıtkabi Mausoleum was completed in 1953. Today, he lies underground, beneath the room where his symbolic coffin rests.
On weekends, Atkabir gets crowded as people come from all over the country to welcome Atatürk. If you go on a weekday, you can admire Ataturk’s boats, Cadillac, and other personal items without being obstructed by hundreds of people.
The building is said to be simple but impressive, like Ataturk’s character. Every construction decision was planned to make sense.
The first 26 steps up to the mausoleum mark the beginning of the “Great Offensive” (Battle of Dumlupinal) on August 26, 1922, and the 43 steps leading to Atatürk’s tomb mark the period during which he founded the republic. represents. The Lion’s Path leading to the Ceremonial Square is designed with asymmetrical tiles with grass between them to make the path to Ataturk’s tomb slow and difficult. I stumbled upon this, so apparently it seems to work.
Ending the journey at Atatürk’s final resting place is a fitting end to reflecting on his life and his influence on Turkiye.
Tip: Since Anutka Mausoleum is an army base, your bags will be checked upon entry, whether you leave them in your car or not.
Fact file:
Flights to Ankara:
I took a flight from London Stansted to Istanbul and finally Ankara. It’s common to have a layover in Istanbul, but since you’ll be stopping over anyway, we recommend taking the time to explore Istanbul if possible. However, there are also direct flights, which take approximately 4 hours.
Ankara Esenboga Airport is just a 30-minute taxi ride from the city center and 40 minutes from Lugar Hotel.
Stay in Ankara:
In Ankara, stay at Lugar, a Luxury Collection Hotel, part of the Marriott International chain. Located in Kavaklidere, close to the shopping street and He Kuğulu Park (Swan Park).
Rooms are spacious and include a seating area, desk, minibar and coffee maker, and some have floor-to-ceiling windows with stunning city views. There is also a large indoor swimming pool, a spa area with sauna, steam room and Jacuzzi, a gym with a running track, a squash court, a virtual golf room and a deck area for sunbathing. You won’t want to leave the hotel.
