Dan Hot 89’s bone-in chicken platter (left) and chicken tender sandwich (Photo: John Anderson)
Before I begin, dear readers, I must make a confession: when it comes to spicy food, I am definitely one of those “people” who hate it. When Hot Ones reduce celebs to tears, I cringe and claim that I can tolerate that level of heat better. I put XXX hot sauce on absolutely everything and consider Sriracha to be just as hot as ketchup. Making chili is a no-no at potlucks or football watch parties because as soon as a friend takes a bite, they immediately start coughing and reach for their water bottle.
So, with great interest, I headed over to North Austin’s newest mobile chicken shack, which has the words “dang hot” in its name.
The truck is the latest addition to Celis Brewing’s beer garden on Metric Boulevard. While occupying a space right next to Joseph Gomez’s famous taco truck Con Todo, which serves up Rio Grande Valley cuisine, seems like a tall order at first glance, the Dang Hot 89 team seems ready to maintain the stellar reputation of their new location. That said, they also have some issues with timing to work out, as they just arrived at Celis over the Fourth of July weekend. Celis is a lot busier than Dang Hot 89’s previous location (a little-known truck park off McNeil Drive), and during their first opening weekend, there were long wait times and the truck staff had to close orders for a while to keep up with demand. Dang Hot 89 is run by a skeleton staff of one or two, but luckily the staff’s upbeat attitude and willingness to serve orders meant we were able to wait for our chicken at a picnic table with a refreshing beer.
If even the best smiles and friendly conversation don’t put you in the mood for a long wait for their professionally seasoned fried chicken, Dang Hot 89 offers the option to order online ahead of time. Be warned, though: their website doesn’t always reflect the most accurate information about what items are still in stock. If you’re dying to eat something that’s listed as “out of stock” online, and you have plenty of time to wait for your order, consider heading over to the truck anyway and trying your luck there.
I was immediately struck by the depth of chilli flavour – Dang Hot 89 has clearly given the paste some time to sit, allowing the chicken to fully infuse the layers of spice.
Now, about the chicken itself. Dang Hot 89 serves up a simple, focused menu centered around one dish: Nashville hot chicken. This Tennessee specialty, made with buttermilk-soaked chicken dipped in flour, deep-fried and smeared with lard and chili paste, has become popular in Austin. Music City icon Hattie B’s recently opened an outpost on South Lamar, and Tumble 22 has grown from a hot-chicken cult favorite into a mini-chain, and Dang Hot 89 is poised to take over in an already highly competitive space.
Dang Hot 89’s signature dish is the bone-in platter, which includes thighs, drumsticks and wings served traditionally Nashville-style on sliced bread with coleslaw, dill pickles and “Dang Dip,” the exact recipe for which is shrouded in mystery, but tastes like a sriracha aioli with a sweet flavor reminiscent of Memphis barbecue sauce.
Dang Hot 89 does a lot of takeaway business, but the benefit of dining in is the fried chicken’s incredible crispness. When it’s freshly fried, it hasn’t had time to soften or absorb moisture, so each piece pops with a crispy texture. But this crunch isn’t the result of a generous layer of breading; Dang Hot 89 focuses on juicy meat and vibrant pepper paste.
I was immediately impressed by the depth of peppery flavor. Dang Hot 89 clearly lets the paste sit for a while to allow the chicken to fully infuse the layers of spice. The emphasis on pepper is traditional for Nashville hot chicken, but I was hoping for a bit of saltiness or even a touch of tartness from the buttermilk marinade. That contrast would really bring out the pepper lacquer and add to the heat of the chicken.
Dang Hot 89 offers four spiciness levels to choose from: mild, medium, hot, and “Dang Hot.” Since I love spicy food, I naturally chose Dang Hot. For all you capsaicin lovers, here’s the facts: Dang Hot isn’t actually that hot. Yes, you’ll feel a tingling sensation on your lips and you’ll want to grab a cold drink. But the heat doesn’t last long enough to have you coming back for more. The coleslaw and pickles on the chicken platter also help to balance the heat. The tangy dill brings a pleasant tartness, while the coleslaw is clean, salty, and understated. Dang Hot 89 offers a clever twist on the Nashville classic, substituting Texas toast for the standard white bread. The thick slices effectively absorb the fat, juices, and peppery residue from the chicken, while the slightly sweet flavor balances it out.
If a chicken platter with tons of leftovers seems a bit too much for lunch, Dang Hot 89 also serves sandwiches. I ordered the chicken tender sandwich, which came with two large chicken strips, a hearty serving of coleslaw, and a pile of pickle chips. There was a nice blend of flavors, textures, and temperatures in every bite, but I think a sturdier roll would have been better than the flimsy burger bun. This is definitely a knife-and-fork sandwich; if you think sandwiches should be held in your hands, your opinion of this one might change.
Dang Hot 89’s spicy chicken may not have the fiery heat you’d expect, but the generous portion size, rich layer of pepper, crispy batter, and tender meat all add up to more than just a heat hit: a bold, uninhibited explosion of intense flavor that makes the long wait at this North Austin beer garden well worth it.
Danhot 89
10001 Metric (Celis Brewery)
Instagram.com/danghot89
